Travels in Ethiopia
on My VSO Ethiopian Adventures (Ethiopia), 11/Mar/2011 10:44, 34 days ago
Three VSO volunteers set off from AA on Saturday 19th Feb to travel by the long distance luxury Sky Bus up to Gondar, nearly 800 kilometres from Addis. The journey took 13 hours and the route takes you across the Blue Nile gorge which has to be second to the Grand Canyon! Its quite a sight. The bus takes over an hour to descend the side of the gorge and at least another half an hour to negotiate the steep and curving road up the other side.Gondar is a notable historical town in its own right having been the capital of Ethiopia for over 200 years from 1635 to mid 19th century. However Gondar is also in the foothills of the Simien Mountains and is the launch point for trips into these mountains. Most of the mountain range is now a national park and this covers what is often referred to as the‘roof of Africa’. Its highest point, Ras Dashen is the 4th highest peak in Africa at 4620m. Geographically the mountains resulted from the massive uplifts of the land at the time of the formation of the Rift Valley and it is these earth dynamics and plate tectonics that has put Ethiopia on the map both from a scenic and hence tourist point of view as well as from an important geological, volcanism and geographical point of view. The rocks of these mountains are predominantly volcanic. The north side of the mountain range forms a dramatic escarpment as the upland literally falls away so thescenery is very dramatic and unusual. The top is relatively flat forming a large plateau, hence the roof of Africa. However water erosion over geological time has produced some spectacular features.After a day looking around the sights of Gondar and the old castle complex (Royal Enclosure) of King Fasilidas, and a famous decorated church of Debre Birhan Selassie, we were picked up by Tadele (Tad) who was to be our guide for the 4 days we were walking in the Simiens. Yet another gorgeously good looking young Ethiopian male! We rattled around in a Land Cruiser for the next 3 hours as we made our way into the mountains on a dirt road. We started walking at 10.30am having picked up our armed Scout (mandatory for walking in the Simiens). To this day I am not clear from what he was protecting us; people? animals? invasion from outer space?. Mohammed wore a very old sports jacket under his over cloths, or gabi, and walked across challenging mountain terrain for 4 days in a pair of plastic sandals, which were broken in 2 places!Animals are not abundant in the Simiens, due to past exploitation, but there are some notable species that are unique to these mountains, none of which are of any risk to walkers! We saw 2 bushbuck, a Walia Ibex– beautiful animal, lots of Gelada Baboons who roam across the Simiens in troupes of over 100. We did not see the Ethiopian wolf which is rare in these mountains. Several notable birds of prey, a ‘something’ buzzard, thick billed raven, falcon, and the ubiquitous Lammergeyer. I spotted Klipspringer spoor and Jackal droppings. We heard Hyena at night.The walking was challenging at first mainly because of the attitude and we reached 4100m. We did not plan to climb the highest peak, as this would have required at least 2 more days and a degree of fitness/altitude‘proofness’ that we were probably not capable of without proper training, although you do quickly acclimatise. I was assuming that without getting to the top heights we may not get the best views, but being on the top of the plateau and on the edge of the escarpment, the views are then for all to see! Bagging a peak would seem a bit excessive and only in order to say you had done it.It was really enjoyable, walking was wonderful, the weather was perfect, the scenery varied and spectacular and the company good. As this is the height of the dry season much of the landscape was very dry and colourless and the dust was very bad in some of the areas we walked where there was no grass or rock cover. We saw none of the waterfalls that flow after the rains and stream water was low or none existent. I was quite surprised to experience large expanses of bare soil at this attitude and this must make for massive soil erosion when the rains come. The population living within the park is able to grow crops at this altitude, mainly barley, but at the moment the fields are fallow. On these steep slopes and without significant terracing, wow, I really wonder what it looks like when it rains heavily. Around some villages it is obvious that animal overgrazing has been responsible for the destruction of anchoring grass. I was also amazed at the texture of what I assume is volcanic soil, it is simply dust! There is no texture to it at all. The different colours of the rocks was amazing.Having said all this, some days we walked in long swaying dried grass of colours I would describe as cinnamon and silver as the sun shone on it.The nights were down to freezing evidenced by the thin coating of frost the next morning. The facilities are very basic, as, although there are 3 designated campsites within the Park, this is just an open space with a‘rondavel’ shelter as a cooking area and a couple of long drop sheds for toilet facilities and that is it. Our tents, food, sleeping and cooking equipment and limited water travelled in by 4 mules. Firewood is procured from nearby villages, as was the chicken (alive and kicking to start with) for one of our meals! As well as the guide and scout, we had a chef and assistant, and these were also ‘helped’ by a local unemployed youth from the local village. I asked whether tourism was helping the villages within the park. Examples of how they are able to earn money include things like thehiring of mules, the employing of scouts, the selling of firewood, chickens, the selling of handmade and rather basic souvenirs, the sale of cokes/fantas etc for highly inflated prices and the opportunity for casual employment. The problem is it is very opportunistic and season specific and there really isn’t enough tourism yet. We saw one or two other ferengi groups and on the last day as we drove out we saw a large group – apparently Exodus, but there is no real tourist development and structure. Even the small businesses that operate to take visitors into the park, are one man band enterprises. Tad also said that one disadvantage is that the opportunity for easy money was an incentive for young people not to attend school and sustain an education.On this subject, we were impressed with notices along the road as we drove through villages to get to the park;‘Childhood is a time for education, not marriage’.‘Send a child to school, not work’.After a MUCH needed hot shower and a good nights sleep back in Gondar, we travelled by mini bus 3 hours down to Bahir Dar. Lake Tana on which the town of BD sits is the source of the Blue Nile and we found the town and the lake to be delightful and spent 3 days there. Scattered, or dotted around the lake and on islands in the lake are a series of ancient monasteries dating from the 14th century. From the outside, these are little more than large rondavel type structures, some still with thatch, with the remaining monks living in premises close to the main circular church. However, their structure and decoration with colourfully painted allegorical scenes of religious significance are absolutely stunning and quite unique. The Bradt guide (2009) describes them thus;‘covered from top to bottom with paintings that collectively serve as a visual encyclopaedia of Ethiopian ecclesiastical concerns’. In terms of subject, he comments ‘these paintings are positively Chaucerian in their physicality, ribaldry and gore’. WE visited three and this is no understatement!The, not insignificant, boat ride on the lake was lovely. Pelicans, other birds and Hippos in and on the water! We saw the Nile River as it exits the lake and we also visited the Nile Falls some few miles from the town. Unfortunately due to a combination of hydro-electric installations and dry season, the water coming over the falls was not at its best. There is a lovely walk which takes 1.5 hours around the area of the river and the falls which we enjoyed as the sun was going down.From Bahir Dar we returned to Addis Ababa (all roads lead into and out of the capital) and from there back to our respective placement locations.