Dinner in Khujand........
on Elaine McGauran (Tajikistan), 23/Sep/2011 20:50, 34 days ago
So as I have written about the many wonderful opportunities I have had to eat with locals in their home and experience the‘real Tajikistan’.But this picture below is typical of how a traditional Tajik table is laid out for dinner. The only problem I have is that after a while (well to be honest 5 minutes) I’m shifting around trying to get comfortable. It’s a culture thing I’m just not used to sitting at ground level eating food. But I’ve posted these pictures enjoy!!So this this is the table laid out………………This is golupsi– yummy stuffed peppers with rice and mincemeat but they use a very particular spice which is unique to Central Asia – Zera. It takes a bit of getting used to but I actually like it.Another Tajik speciality Mantu– Dumplings stuffed with rice and mincemeat. So folks are you getting the theme here? Rice and meat here is to us like spuds and bacon. To the left is Shambosa a pastry filled with meat and onion. The amount of meat used indicates the relative wealth of the household.Living with Jeff:Ah lads he is great. We are like the proverbial married couple– checking in for when your home and who is cooking. We have a system whoever cooks doesn’t clean. Honestly he is a fantastic cook and well frankly I just love Indonesian food. He suffers from high cholesterol which doesn’t surprise me – the food has loads of oil, sugar and salt. Oh mental point = I must take a test when back home.So we decided to take up the carpets and mop the floors. Unfortunately the local shops didn’t have a mop – so I asked the locals what they use. They use a wooden T – shaped instrument with a rag. So Jeff volunteered to do the honours – I opted out due to my bad back. (See picture below).Anyways next day I spent over an hour hunting but finally found a shop where I could buy a mop. I mean seriously hand mopping floors in this day and age– I don’t think so. Of course carrying the mop home caused great consternation with the locals. Again I am talking about a mop here folks not some space age tool. They were so curious– even more so when I explained that Jeff had already cleaned the floors. In the neck of the woods blokes just do not clean – it is strictly a woman’s job.We even have a toilet system all I will say is thank god for the warning sounds of toilet freshener. To be fair out flat is so small– two bedrooms, one kitchen and that’s pretty much it. But were lucky we get on great and he is a star!!Wedding SeasonYep now that Ramadan is over the wedding season is in full swing. Every day I go to the park and most times there is at least 3 or 4 couples there getting pictures taken.. Looking at them I don’t know whether to laugh or cry.The girl in her $500 hired dress (like something from my big fat Gypsy Wedding). As for the groom in his shiny hired suit well he always looks like he’d love to run. Unfortunately you can’t actually see the girl’s face as she avoids eye contact as a sign of respect. Now I am no expert in body language but trust me the girls are generally acting very nervous. For both of them this is probably maybe the 2ndtime they have seen each other, particularly with an arranged marriage.No honeymoons here folks you spend the night and well the rest of your life in your in-laws house.The other night I was out with two Tajik friends and they were explaining to me what was going on at the next table.There was a young couple, their Mothers and a‘facilitator type person’. At this stage the wedding had been approved my both families and there were there to meet. After a while the ladies walked away and the young couple had about 5 minutes together. They exchanged phone numbers (only at this stage can they do this). And usually the guy asks the girl does she have another boyfriend and will she love him. The answer regardless of circumstances is always NO and YES!!.However have to say the vast majority of people I know here are happily married. Maybe there is something to arranged marriages???Rat Season:Oh god it is rat season here. The first few times I saw the little bastards on the street I screamed and was jumping around. Particularly when you notice there are oh about 4 (I was screaming so much I lost count) literally a few yards from your feet.Now getting as used to it as I ever be. E.g. this morning I saw one on the street right beside a stall. Well while I don’t scream anymore, I do a sort of a yelp and shudder – whilst trying to maintain my composure. Because as far as the locals are concerned it is no big deal!! Hope all is well.As always from me to y’all good night!!!Lainey xxxPS:Well I have never really understood why locals stare so much at foreigners– I mean it’s now like we are Aliens. So I saw two tourists the other day and I just found myself staring at them. It’s the first time I’ve seen tourists here. And then I had a ‘eureka’ moment it dawned on me I was staring because well frankly they just looked odd and different. So now Ifinally understand the whole staring business.A bit embarrassed to say I actually followed them for a bit– was curious to know where they hell they were from. Not sure but think Germany!!