The African Express? The end of the travel adventures
on Kev in Tanzania (Tanzania), 23/Sep/2009 05:05, 34 days ago
This is the last of the Zambian travels - almost up to date now...Friday 11th SeptemberWe got up early at Cha Cha Chas so that we could catch a taxi to the bus station around 7.30. Slept better than last time we were at Cha Cha Chas but that is probably because there was no gaping hole in the top of my mosquito net!We got to the bus station with plenty of time and were instantly mobbed by porters and touts. Liz and I get this a lot so were pretty used to it but Jo did not feel very comfortable. We got onto a bus and they loaded our bags. The two porters then wanted money from us, we were going to hand it over but then their boss came over and told us not too. We had to sit on the bus for 2 hours waiting for it to fill up… (a typical thing in Africa, not like back home, here buses only leave when as full as possible!)The porters came onto bus and demanded money from us saying the bags were big and their boss said it was ok. I refused and told them to go get their boss. They kept asking and threatened to take our bags off. I still refused they were just trying to make some money out us because we were white. The girls were getting worried and told me to give in. Even locals on the bus were telling the porters off but they would not listen. I gave in the end and muttered a few insults under my breath. I hate this side of Africa…We finally left and got to Kapiri Mposhi (where the TAZARA station is) at 12.45, the train was due at 1pm so we got a cab to the station only to find the train had been delayed by 24 hours… To make things even more helpful all of the staff had gone to lunch… A true TIA (This is Africa) moment!!We hung around until the station master came back from lunch and went to check to see if our reservations were ok. He said all was fine and turn up tomorrow morning. So went to get a late lunch at a place called Sojan. Sojan was covered in football logos from premier league teams– it look quite funny in the middle of this town. They did lovely fish and chips (not the UK sort, the fish still had head!) with some tasty veg on the side. We decided we were not going to go back to Lusaka but stay in Kapiri Mposhi for the night. As we were waiting for food I went and found acheap motel for us to stay in called Unity Hotel.It was very no frills but we were able to get a room with lock that works and with 2 beds. There was no running water but that was not a concern for me and we were there for only one night. We went out for some beers at a pub close by and got lots of attention. One drunk guy was telling me about David Livingstone and Cecil Rhodes but much to his annoyance I actually knew a fair bit about both of them. Another drunk guy was watching us play Monopoly card game and told me he wanted to dance with me– this was not a gay proposition, it is normally just guys that go out drinking and dancing, they are happy to dance with each other (slightly different in UK right…). Most women (not all though) that you meet by themselves in clubs or pubs are often prostitutes and they will try and pick youup. We stayed for a few beers and then went back to the hotel as Jo was not feeling too good.We went to bed and I could not help feeling that this was probably the least successful day of the holiday…Saturday 12th SeptemberDespite slight misgivings about the room I had a very nice sleep and it was nice to be cuddling Liz at night. I knew I would miss that when back in Mpwapwa. The room included a very basic breakfast of bread… After that we went to buy some supplies near the market and then walked over to the New Kapiri Mposhi station.Outside the station we took some photos and some local kids wanted to be in them too. We saw the station master again and then waited for the train to be ready to board. We bumped into some other mzungu (white people) called Jess and Oliver. I had a little wander around the station and found some shops outside with a tiny market. It did not sell any fruit but I got some bread, butter and tomatoes.At around 1pm it became time to board. Everybody moved towards the gates. There were no sensible queues that us British are famous for and once we got through the gates we tried to find our carriage. There was major drama trying to find the right cabin. The female steward was just dumping people in any room and then other people were trying to get into their rooms only to find them occupied by someone else! We finally managed to get our cabin, the people in there were in the wrong one and once they were moved out we could move in and get comfy for the 1800km trip which would be taking over 50 hours!The good thing was we had the cabin to ourselves as we bought all 4 tickets. We decided to get a beer to celebrate. The waiter bought us lunch of fish and rice which was 12,000 kwacha but very nice. I was reading a new book‘Last orders at Harrods’ about a fictitious East African country and the corruption and development work happening in it, read it if you can its great!The views from the train were lovely and we had a sunset beer and I was pleased to be back on the Safari lagers– much stronger that Mosi and they come in a bigger bottle! Everyone was nice and happy and we were able to relax for a while.The train was long– 20 carriages with windows that you can lean right out of and doors that swing open if we went too fast! The doors to the rooms were nice and secure though. The toilet emptied onto the track and the shower barely worked but it was part of the adventure! There were stations in the middle of nowhere where people would appear and either ask for soap/bottles or try to sell you food.Talking with Jess she told us that she and Oliver did not stay the night in Kapiri Mposhi as their guide book say it was dangerous! We were fine I just dubbed the town the arsehole of nowhere…I was meant to sleep on the top bunk but as the train was bumpy I was worried about falling down– so part way through the night I moved down to the bed opposite Jo. We all got spooked around 2am when the train stopped at a station and it sound like there was a riot outside! In the end it was just noisy people trying to get onto the train…Sunday 13th SeptemberWe had a full day on the train ahead of us. The scenery was still gorgeous and the train was moving at a speed where you could appreciate it. The buses in both countries travel too fast for photos out the window but the train was perfect.In the afternoon we were into Tanzania and the immigration people came onboard with stamps so we could‘re-enter’ Tanzania. If you ever come here you will find that it is not signatures but stamps that are the all powerful authority, anyone who is anyone has one!We had hours of chatting and games– oh and drinking…We all ended up going to sleep very drunk but content.Monday 14th SeptemberHad a better night slept but woke up nursing a hangover that could incapacitate a rhino…We were trying to keep track of stations as were pass around 93 on the route. We were coming up the really exciting part where were passed through Mikumi national park and Selous game reserve. We saw Elephants, Colobus Monkeys, Zebras, Wildebeest, Giraffes, Baboons and Impala. On the Selous game reserve part there were also lots of animal bones even Elephants skeletons with the tusk missing (guess there is a‘legal’ ivory trade too…)Kids would be at stations and we gave them pens, left over food and soap. It is nice to give but if there were too many kids they would push and shove for the gifts. Going by Morogoro region in the train was lovely as it was so fertile and there were women with huge bunches on bananas on their heads.We finally arrived in Dar at 8pm. We had to walk down part of the train to get off as it was longer than the platform. There were crazy queues again but at this station they deployed a policeman with a nightstick to keep people in 2 queues (did not stop people from pushing and trying to queue jump but it had more order than most queues I have seen here).We got a taxi from the station to Econolodge had a nice hot shower and then went to Badminton institute for dinner a nice way to end our last night together in Dar.Tuesday 15th SeptemberWe woke up early this morning as the girls were going to go to Saadani national park for a few days. I was due back at work yesterday and sent them a message to apologise explaining the train was 24 hours late. The girls left at 8am and I then went to YMCA to book a room for Liz when she comes back to Dar. Then I caught the dala to Ubungo to buy my ticket to go back to Mpwapwa. I also caught the dala back so saved myself around 11,000tsh as the dala only costs 250tsh and cabs 6000tsh. The only problem was I had to stand and sweat all the way back as the dala was so packed.I had lunch at Chef’s Pride, went on the internet for a little bit and then bought some nice veg and supplies for when I get back to Mpwapwa.Had a quiet evening and night as was missing Liz a little but it was nice to reflect on our big adventure!So that is it– the end of the great adventure.Take care