Meetings of the many
on Marika VSO-ing in Namibia (Namibia), 13/Feb/2010 15:22, 34 days ago
It’s been a well packed fortnight. Last weekend was another one of being spoilt. Vivien and I went down to Kifi, near Divundu where James (Canadian) is volunteering with the local fishery; a huge, new development to help sustain the overfished Okavango River. Although in the bush, his accommodationis particularly jammy; brand new, safe and very comfortable. So, after an evening meal on his porch(!) we headed out in the morning to Mahango National Park. We saw more different animals to Chobe such as Zebra, Steenbok, Monkeys, Blue Wildebeast and Kudu. There were many Giraffe, Hippos, Impalas but not an elephant in sight. A very worthwhile National Park nevertheless. So peaceful with a river with water lilies and the animals so happy and healthy looking. It also highlights a particularly large Baobab tree. In fact, one with probably the biggest trunk I’ve ever seen.We then stayed at the renown Ngepi campsite, with great decor, the best toilets and showers set in the bush with views and surrounding plants, sun decks overlooking the river, and the best bit, the river pool! A section of the river protected from crocs and hippos for a dip; small with murky, brown water, but still refreshing as you get dragged by the current creating a need to keep swimming. The rest of the day and the next morning was spent relaxing out here by the river and meeting some Afrikaners who also worked at the fishery and were here to enjoy the bar and people. The camping temperature at night was ideal. If only there wasn’t the threat of the winter nights to come.The next day we stopped in Popa falls, which really should just be called some rapids and drove home, and saw my first elephants on the road to Katima (finally!). People keep going on about the road being full of them, roads signs warning you and I had yet to encounter them. On the journeys of endless, dead-straight roads, we give the occasional lift. Hitching is very common and how most get about. We try to stick to women, young people for safety. But you find that firstly, they don’t speak as good English as the men (if they do at all), it doesn’t feel much appreciated, almost expected and it can be pretty smelly. This time, the journey was more interesting en route to Kifi, as we picked up two groups of San. It was really fascinating to hear them talk amongst themselvesusing the infamous clicking. Unfortunately, they are much discriminated against and excluded by Caprivians.The last week included of hosting two Peace Corps for a night each (Tuesday and Thursday) as the two Katima based ones are away; both in their innocent early twenties, American, friendly and pretty accepting of some crummy demands made of them. VSO volunteer Sanne (Netherlands) was also up in Katima from Windhoek this week working with Junior Achievement in schools (encouraging youth to create jobs by starting their own businesses instead of looking for work were there isn’t any), so I invited her round as my first guest on Tuesday. I’m very grateful she remembered to bring me some movies to copy on to my hard drive for those quiet times that I should be expecting soon. Now I need to make time to watch them, after having been out of practice in this even at home.On Thursday I met two more volunteers from another Scandinavian organization I hadn’t heard of through Emily; Felipe (Brazil) and Eunjan (South Korea) who are unfortunately leaving for good on Sunday and Saturday respectively. I had seen them in the roughly hour-long queue for NamPost a couple of weeks ago, and with so few ‘Makuwas’ in Katima, we quickly recognized each other. With them and Scott joining us, I tried my first dinner out at the renowned chicken grill. Not a bad place for reasonably-priced food when you don’t want to cook.On Friday evening, I met with Sanne for a beer or two at the Zambezi lodge overlooking the Zambezi River for sunset. For a moment, I became aware that I had slightly missed going for drinks with mates or colleagues at home on a Friday night. Then, as the frogs started their choir once it was dark, I thought that listening to them was enough to make me laugh. There were so many of them and so noisy. From home, I can only make out crickety kind of noises (of which I still haven’t worked out what they are yet) and hippos. Scott came along to the lodge and so I was then persuaded to try out the new local bar to see Felipe and Eunjan. Equipped with head torch and an escort, I cycled at night for the first time in the empty town. It felt pretty dodgy and the ‘Shabeens’(as they call the kind of bars here) possibly more so. The majority out were men drinking and dancing to local pop music that you normally hear blaring out of cars and shops during the day. They seem to play Zambian music too. There are many Zambians and Batswana in Caprivi, making it more diverse than you might expect. To my relief, we went to a pretty toned-down venue for a short while, with pool and some games, but luckily some outside benches you could sit on and avoid the heat from indoors. I will slowly work my way up to trying other places in time.This Saturday morning topped the week in a professional/cultural sense as I went into Mavuluma for a welcoming and presentation of two computers from the Deputy Speaker of the National Assembly. This is where I finally understood the reputation Namibians have for formalizing and significantly lengthening events to an unimaginable extent, as the 13-point programme was drawn up. I must say, the novelty has not worn off yet and I enjoyed the whole process, but especially the music, dance and singing the‘culture group’ of learners put on; traditional Caprivian style.A relaxing weekend is now welcomed, I shall now join the farewell swim and drinks beginning at the pool at the Zambezi lodge. This fortnight, I have thanked my lucky stars for Cadbury’s Fruit&Nut finding its way to the local supermarket.I will talk work next...I’m aware it is well overdue.