Where am I?
on Lynn Sellwood (The Gambia), 01/Nov/2010 15:25, 34 days ago
I keep finding myself wondering what century I am in and sometimes I have to check which country too! Here in The Gambia, and I guess elsewhere in Africa, I keep coming up against things which are rooted in ancient tradition alongside the mad, modern, western world. The Gambia is a country of contrasts (except for the landscape– it is rather flat and boring if it wasn’t for the birds) and I keep getting mesmerized!Boats at rest in BakauIf you look at the main picture of my blog you will see a picture of the fish market. Seemingly utter chaos but order emerges as the boats are landed and the fish are brought ashore; men and women jostle to pack or sell; ice comes from somewhere; broken freezers act as temporary storage; boats are hauled out of the sea by manpower and cylindrical rollers.Prayers In amongst all of this; the call to prayer, which each man obeys, laying out his mat and gives time for the devotions expected. It is considered rude to watch someone praying but how else can I show you the side-by-side approach to life in this country? Here the majority are Muslims but there is an easy acceptance of the Christian faith too. Different tribes intermarry, Wollof, Mandinka, Jola, Fula and Serahule all have different languages and traditions and each is proud of their heritage but manage themselves through all the differences. Time is given at work for people to pray, men remove their shoes and socks to wash their hands, face and their feet, roll out their mats in a corner or under a tree and begin their prayers. No-one blinks......yet among all this tradition and tribal ways lurks an ancient belief, not far from the surface– animism- the belief in the power of the natural spirits to affect your or other peoples’ lives. It is common to hear reference to the “evil eye” or spells which will bring bad luck. People will go to a traditional healer for natural remedies even for serious illnesses and if nothing worksthen “inshallah” it is God’s will.The problem is that the trappings of a western life are now always present and nearly always in the form of a bloody Chelsea football shirt!Stop sending old football shirts to Africa! Often the dissonance between the old and the new or the African and the European is seen when on our way to see some of the paintings in the very rural village of Kubeneh. There had been heavy rain the day before and these roads are just dirt and sand tracks. If you make a wrong judgement about where to go through a puddle this is what can happen!Even three men and a machete!!Look at the machete! It was quite funny really and we had to walk the last five minutes to the village (because even the man with the machete couldn’t help) to be told that no-one in the village owned a car. They moved about on foot, used the local vans, called gelli-gelli or by boat on the river. We spotted a four wheeled drive only to realise that it was Rongo, a famous traditional singer, who was checking out some land in the village. Eventually a gelli-gelli (which is a van which carries people locally) came along and pulled us out.So, in this remote village came half a dozen American and British street artists bringing their interpretation of imagery to Africa. The result is a mixture of amazing and downright weird! I have taken a few shots but you get a better idea from thewebsite. It is also quite funny! You also get some of the reactions of the artists.I am buying this print from EelusI was really pleased to be invited by Lawrence Williams, co-owner of Makasutu and promoter of Wide Open Walls to come at meet the artists that evening. Here is Eelus chatting and giving advice to a young local artist after looking at his sketch book.In this village are the most amazing cotton trees which are easily hundreds of years old with amazing roots.Me in the tree Again it is the trees which draw my eye; I love the palms and the baobab and the cotton tree.Must be hundreds of years oldBaobab fruitMusic has been juxtaposed in the last couple of weeks.Kora and Ballafon Here is the traditional kora which has a beautiful sound and combines string with percussion. Gregory Isaacs (Night Nurse) died; aged 59 and I went to see a Spanish/French soft jazz quintet called Juan Martin at theAlliance Francaisewhich was a wonderful experience in an open arena under a bright African night sky.Juan Martin Quintet at Alliance Francaise In any taxi you get in you are just as likely to hear Senegalese-Gambian pop music, reggae and dub or UK/US schmaltz......all side by side.One thing that doesn’t change and seems a part of every Gambian’s day is the making and drinking of Attaya.Attaya is a green tea which is boiled in small teapots on charcoal stoves in the street or compound and is said to be addictive. The teapots only hold enough for two small glasses and the whole ritual takes at least half an hour. My neighbour offered to make attaya for me so I could try it and uses sugar and mint to make it special. I was a little concerned when I saw the tea packet which proudly announces itself as special gunpowder!Anyhow, the result after much mixing, pouring and froth creation was a delicious hot tea which I will definitely try again.I must finish with a promotion ofSandele, a resort near the Senegal border. It is an eco-resort, built from eco technologies, boasting compost toilets and ethical, responsible tourism. I went to meet a colleague from Orpington College and yet again my two worlds collided! As we sat under a canopy, surveying the Atlantic from a huge empty beach, discussing the delights of doing our yoga sun salutations to the ocean that morning it was hard to remember that another life had ever existed where deadlines and targets were the purpose of my existence. I am tempted to let Africa do its work as I get stuck in the African soil and wait, inshallah, for the next thing to happen.........