Tobaski, Remembrance Day and egg-cups!
on Lynn Sellwood (The Gambia), 26/Nov/2010 09:03, 34 days ago
First, you have to see the moon and then you prepare to buy the ram (or rams if you are wealthy). So, it all about the ram rather than the latest perfume or toy.Car tyres being recycled The date of Tobaski was in dispute this year. The Gambian Supreme Islamic Council decreed was that it should fall in line with Mecca but some local people believed that because of the day the moon was sighted it should be celebrated the day before. Hence a two day holiday! And you get days either side because people are travelling back to their home village and family. So, just like Christmas and Thanksgiving really.The buying of the ram is very important and the subject of much discussion in the week before. From my office I was surprised to see herds of rams being driven down the street and everyone from the office went out to look and check the price.This is my colleague, Kawsu, looking at the meat! Remember this is the capital city; traffic is bought to a standstill and Fula tribesmen wander through the streets in order to make a sale.Look at distictive Fula headgear and jacket in 35 degrees! The local memorial park (and cricket pitch) was filled with rams from the President’s farm and offered for sale, too. Then you have to get your ram home.I love this picture! Not easy when most people do not have cars and rely on motorbikes or gelli-gelli vans.Not tied up yet! Finally, everyone makes sure they and the children have a new outfit. Sound familiar?What might not be familiar are the places you find animals in The Gambia. We VSO volunteers are having a competition to take the best photos of animals in strange places.Cows paddling at Sandele BayI’ve got the best (I think) of cows paddling on the seashore but there are some of goats on cars in the Regional Education Directorate offices which I’m sure I’ve never seen in Local Education Authority car parks in Britain.Goats need their rest I haven’t managed to snap the sheep on the golf course yet because whenever they are there I don’t have the camera.I was invited by my friend and work colleague, Aida Njie, to join her family for Tobaski. First I had to have a new outfit. I did worry about this because there is something slightly ridiculous about a grown woman from South London looking like a local Gambian woman and it is something I vowed not to do.Sort of suits me? But, I gave in and wore this to the celebration and it was really appreciated by Aida’s family. I have found out that legs and thighs in particular are seen as particularly erotic parts of the body so have to be covered whereas breasts cause no problem at all!Then comes the killing of the rams!This is done in commemoration of the event recounted in the Koran where Abraham has to sacrifice his son to God and only at the last minute does God agree to allow him to spare his son and substitute a ram. We have the same story retold in the Bible. Sound familiar?I did not watch the killing but the results are the same in every compound and every part of the animal is used. In Aida’s family compound there were four rams killed and much of it was given to the needy in the village which is also a central part of the festival.The heads are cleaned and boiled and are considered a delicacy.Cleaning the heads and boiling them The men do the killing and deal with the butchery, the women do the vegetables and the cooking,I was part of this on the day, I know my placeexcept the barbeque which is given to the young boys to deal with. Sound familiar?The skin is removed and dried. The rest of the mutton was used to make make a lovely stew served with cherreh. For dessert there was nanburro which is a mix of coconut, baobab, milk, rice flour and sugar. Meat is barbequed and served first and then later abenachinis served, which is a spicy meat stew. Throughout there are soft drinks,wonjo juiceand attaya served all in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. There is more food served later in the evening as friends and more family visit dressed in all their finery.The children waiting for cake The children then go looking for “salibou” which is a cash present from grownups. The children are always dressed in their best clothes and look stunning. As every part of Tobaski day is like Christmas it all seemed so familiar: we do the same thing with the turkey as Gambians do with the ram; I know in my family we get it roast, then cold, then stewed!I had a really nice time at the compound and was made to feel welcome by everybody and I did wonder how many of us would throw open our house to a stranger of a different faith at a special family event.Very near to where I live is theFajara War Cemetery. As it was just after Remembrance Day I thought I’d go and have a look.The entranceThe Muslim gravesI chose this one because he was a Sapper, like my Dad It is a little haven of peace and quiet with a cenotaph and the graves of servicemen from World War 2 from UK and other countries (see plaque) as well as local servicemen. The Christian graves are on one side and the Muslim graves are on the other side. It is not common to have headstones inMuslim cemeteries but it seems right and proper that they should be here. I was very moved to see such a beautifully kept site and the blast of familiarity assaulted me on that day because we are so used to seeing cenotaphs and memorials as part of our daily architecture and I hadn’t ever realisedit.I have to say that it has prompted me to do some research. There may be a book in it for me or Matthew! These are two halves of the explanatory plaque, I hope you can read them.I am still being resourceful and after two months of searching for egg cups I have decided to make my own. Recognise the solution? Look familiar? Yes, cut up toilet roll!!Finally, I hope you are all thinking of ways to donate to Campama school (see last blog) I met a guy this week, Steve Bick (GP, Prospective Labour Party Parliamentary candidate), who has set up a charity called Sunshine with Smiles and is awaiting approval from the Charity Commission for legal status. It is likely that I will ask for your donations to go through this account, so, as soon as I have account details I will be publishing them.As for ideas, (some of you have asked), why not send money instead of Christmas cards and explain by email or e-card that is why you are doing that; hold an event (coffee morning, lunch, evening curry night) and make a charge for the charity; hold a raffle at work; do a sponsored walk, ride, slim or just decide to give some of your own money!! I really want to help this school and can only do it with some money.....................Please send messages to this blog, I really appreciate them xxx