Reach Falls
on George Hamilton (Jamaica), 31/Jan/2011 12:35, 34 days ago
Sunday looked like a write-off. When we woke up we could hear water running through our glassless windows. Our black hurricane shutters are kept barely cracked open for privacy overnight so I had to squint through the openings to verify it actually was raining. It's the dry season so we weren't expecting rain until May. I opened the front door to get a full view of the world and it looked like there was rain everywhere all over Jamaica - the skies were so overcast I couldn't imagine it would let up all day.So I made a batch of pancakes while George carved up a pineapple which we smothered in maple syrup and poured a cup of coffee for breakfast before enjoying our weekly skype call to Andrew and his beautiful family. George checked the weather on the internet and it said nothing about rain, just partly cloudy and sunshine, so we packed our bathing suits and Jamaican flag water shoes and headed out. George said, what does it matter if it's raining when we're just going to get wet at the falls anyway. However, it turns out rain could be a very serious problem at Reach Falls, the rocky path down through the rain forest is very slippery.The drive along the eastern coastal road is particularly bad for large pot holes so the drive is very slow as all the cars in both directions weave about from one side of the road to the other in order to avoid the biggest holes. Oncoming traffic is brought to a halt at every bit of collapsed road. There are sections where there actually is no road at all - just exposed rocky lumps and bumps. I swear if I lived in Jamaica permanently I'd find cheap housing and invest all my money in a 4-wheel drive vehicle - either a Jeep or Land Rover, whichever had the highest chassis clearance.With George's driving skill and patience we reached the falls and were met by Leonard our guide for the day. The rain had actually stopped before we left Kingston and we only drove through the occasional shower en route so we arrived at the falls under clear skies. Perfect!Leonard started our tour pointing out the cable system above which is used to transfer the coconuts and bananas from the plantation on the other side of the gorge. We were happy to hear we weren't going to have to get in it.Then he left us to change into our bathing suits before starting our descent into the rain forest. This is the path at it's widest and flatest, at the top.We could tell on arrival that these falls were going to surpass anything we'd seen to date. When I was shown the narrow mountain path (above) along the edge of the cliff we were going to walk down I almost didn't go. It was a long drop down to the river, there were no handrails and I knew our beach shoes didn't have particularly good grip. I was wishing I owned a pair of Topsiders (sailing shoes for slippery decks) as we slowly and carefully manoeuvred down the pebbly mountainside path covered in places by dead leaves. Leonard assured me nobody had ever slipped off the path to their death yet so I slowly continued to the bottom.After a few moments to take in the river's beauty and relax, we started our ascent through the river rapids to the falls by scrambling over boulders and swimming through the deeper sections. Leonard explained that we would encounter a series of falls which became progressively higher before arriving at the largest falls that are over 10 feet high. The river was beautiful and the rocks amazingly easy to walk on, providing much better traction than the path.After awhile it soon became evident that I was going to have trouble clambering over the increasingly large rocks and swift current, and if I got up, how was I ever going to get back down again. This was a completely natural setting, unlike Dunn's River Falls where they have dug out foot holes in the rocks like ladders. So we agreed I would stay behind while George continued up to greater heights. Leonard pointed at a little spot in the river and suggested I sit there like a bubble because if I ventured too far into the current I'd be taken away. George said eventually Leonard got bored guiding him at his snail's pace and suggested at the 5 foot high falls that perhaps they should return. Leonard said he was worried about me but I was happy in my bubble state, meditating and being massaged by the rushing waters. On our return journey through the river Leonard discussed the importance of keeping fit and how his life in the mountains was the secret to longevity.Our return hike up the mountain was not quite as frightening and definitely easier and faster than our descent through the rain forest but at one point I did slip and fall on the rocky path. Leonard almost had a heart attack but luckily I was OK and only have a scraped knee to show for it. I did realize that with my bones and track record lately that this was the last mountaineering trip I would attempt for awhile. We agreed that George could try it again in a few weeks when our friends from Vancouver come to visit if they so choose. I'll stay at our guest house with the free wi-fi and hammocks overlooking Boston Bay. I may not be in the best of shape right now to visit Reach Falls, but it definitely is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited.We decided not to return home the way we went, but to continue on towards Boston Bay and Port Antonio for food. We hadn't eaten since the pancakes at 7:30 and were starving. When we turned the bend in the road at Long Bay our mouths just dropped in amazement as we saw the beach and beautiful turquoise of the Caribbean below. This most definitely is the finest beach in Jamaica. We stopped and chatted with one of the locals who asked me if this was our first time to Long Bay. We explained no, but this was the first time we had seen it with our eyes fully open. It just seemed better than ever. Perhaps it was the surf, but it most definitely was the bright blue colour of the sea lapping up against long expanse of golden sand that made this encounter so special.We ended up enjoying a delicious meal at Normas on the cruiseship pier in Port Antonio watching the sun go down.A perfect day to end a perfect weekend.