Safiri kwa (journey to)Handeni District
on Clarifel Rodrigo (Tanzania), 30/Jul/2011 21:57, 34 days ago
The bus from Dar to HandeniI was out of the city for 4 days to travel with Vicent (the new project staff of our org. ) to Handeni District. It was an exposure trip on the recent project of our organization under the HIV-AIDS program.Handeni District is in the north eastern part of Tanzania (under the Tanga Region). The district is one of the least developed areas in the country and with a population of more than 200,000.  It is 6-7 hours travel from Dar es Salaam by ordinary bus (no available airconditioned buses).It was a very interesting trip but it was heartbreaking experience. I have seen and witnessed things that opened my heart and eyes on the reality of the true poverty in Tanzania.Day 1From Dar, we left Ubongo Bus Station around 12 noon. When the bus was about to move, a woman with 2 young children (maybe around 5 and 6 years old) went up to the bus and talked to the driver and conductor. Based on the translation of Vicent; the woman made a request that the children will be dropped to the Police Station of Handeni District. These children were left intentionally at the bus station by their mother and fortunately, the woman recognized them that they are from the same village where she lives. Because the incident was reported by the woman to the Police Station of Handeni; their mother was put temporarily at the district’s jail. Vicent said that the reason why the mother of these children left them is the hardship of life in Handeni.  My initial reaction was– that their mother is irresponsible and heartless person. The Rest AreaAfter almost 2 hours of the travel, the bus made a stop beside the road for a toilet break (but I did not see any in the area). Instead, the place is covered by trees and shrubs– no other options if there is a need to discharge the bladder. I went down to take some photos.May this child has a future as bright as his eyesThe next stopped was at a road junction for picking up some passengers. Never thought that it was the end of a well-paved road travel. The bus began to approach a dusty colored (shades of rust and orange) road.  I’ve seen a signage that we’re already in Handeni District. Along the way, I noticed dry hills with few trees, and vast ranges of lands that are empty– no signs of human, vegetation or agricultural production. the road and dry land of HandeniThen another stopped for picking up and dropping some passengers. Signs of life have started to emerge– beside the road are few people and several small huts (made of clay).   It’s hard to imagine how a family of 3 or 4 or 5 can live in this kind of shelter (?).  I was in deep thoughts when I saw these sights–poverty is very evident here. Suddenly, I realized why the mother left her 2 children intentionally at the bus station– maybe she’s hoping that her children would be found by someone who is capable to give them a better life. It’s really sad.The town and the 1stGuest HouseIt was past 6 pm when we reached the town of Handeni. It is a small town and a reflection of simple living. It’s quite different from Dar. There are several shops, vendors, houses with satellite disc (for television), mobile towers and guest houses. I was thinking that maybe it’s better to live here than in Dar. And I like its cool weather.Joven (our full time staff) picked up us and brought us to a guest house to spend the night. It looks like a poorly maintained place. Electricity was out and no running water. There’s a well in the compound. Its water looks like a tea with a creamer. We went to a restaurant for a dinner. While waiting for the food, I tried to connect my computer with my modem but there was no signal– out of the coverage area. The dinner was served and the food was crappy.Back to the guest house, a hot colored water was given for a bath. I had no choice. I combined it to the cold water in the bucket. I used sanitizer and cleansing wet tissue on my body after the bath but I’ve felt like my skin was being crawled of unseen small creatures. I never stopped applying sanitizer on my skin until I was sleepy.  Day 2Despite of my complaints, I had a peaceful sleep. I was woken up by the loud sounds of a radio– it was morning news and it was in Kiswahili. No electricity yet.the hills in HandeniI need water for my shower. Vicent helped me to fetch water from the well. When I filled up the bucket in the bathroom, I saw how dirty it was. I did not see it during the night. Maybe, the crawling unseen creatures on my skin were actually real– not my imagination. one of the houses accross the guest house A breakfast was served– chapatti, boiled egg and tea. The lady in-charge of the guest house is nice and friendly. But we decided to transfer to another place.  2ndGuest HouseMy roomIt was the place where we had a dinner during our first night. The available rooms were not ready yet. We had to wait for more than 30 minutes. The room I’ve got looks comfortable and clean – with aircon (but did not use it since the weather is cold), television, huge bed; but again – no running water in the bathroom. There were 2 buckets filled-up with colored water.the sunflower beside the roadAfter depositing our stuff, we left to proceed to the project activity area.Mobile Center for HIV-AIDS Counselling and Testing at the Open MarketThe MasaisThe open market is a place of local trades and businesses. The major trade is buying and selling of livestock (cows, goats and sheeps). The Masais (ethnic group in Tanzania) are visible in the area. the open marketA make-shift tent was put up and served as a counselling and testing center. There were 2 trained counsellors and testers who were there to accommodate clients.the mobile centerThe mobile center was not busy yet. We decided to move around the market. We mingled with some locals and bought bananas and young coconuts to have reasons to ask few questions from the vendors . I’ve got some curious stares from the people around. Some greeted me of the familiar Kiswahili greetings.with some localsIt was over lunch time and found a place to eat. I had a boiled banana mixed with beef. Not that good but it was a relief to my hungry stomach. roasted goat meatThe boys had the same food but they had a goat meat– roasted in Masai way – no salt and half cooked. After the lunch, we went back to the tent. Vicent did some interviews and I was in-charge of taking photos.We observed and watched how the testing is done.  the testing kitI need to discharge my bladder. I was holding it for a while.  I saw toilets but they are open. I asked one of the counsellors if there are enclosed toilets in the area but she said there are none. I had no option but to go behind the shrubs. She was my look out until I relieved myself.behind these shrubs was my "toilet" during the dayBack to the Guest HouseNobajaj(a motorbike with carriage; they call it CNG in Bangladesh and“tuk-tuk” in Bangkok) on sight. Vicent and I had to walk until the main road. After some few minutes, no bajaj still. There arepiki-pikis(motorcycles) but I was advice not to ride it– it is not safe. Under the heat of the sun, we walked for almost 45 minutes up to the guest house.I asked Vicent to carry my bag.  It was heavy for me.  My computer was insideNot only us were walkingDinnerWe went around the town to look for a place to eat. After checking around 3 places, we found a small clean restaurant. Their food is good. I like the rice.  I think it was cooked in coconut milk. I also enjoyed the fresh milk with tea. It reminded me of the tea time moments I spent with the local people who became my friends in Bangladesh.We became regular clients in this restaurant until our last day in Handeni.Rest TimeA bucket of colored hot water was placed infront of my room– for a bath. Again, same procedure; have to combine it with cold water. And same regimen– after the bath and shower; have to apply sanitizer and wet tissue on my body. Have done this until my last day in Handeni. I’ve tried to fight my thought of the crawling small creatures on my skin. Television Moment on African WeddingI had a hard time getting my sleep. I watched television until past midnight. The channel stations are all local. I watched a program– perhaps a paid slot. A wedding– somewhat like traditional and modern.  Dancing is really part of African’s culture. While the groom, bride, parents and sponsors are marching on the isle towards the altar; they are also dancing with a rapid-beat music on the background. And the people around are making sounds and noises– shouting and singing.Day 3After a brief bath, I saw an earthworm on the floor; beside the buckets– yikes!Had a breakfast at the Guest House Canteen and met some guests. They are from Oman. They are in Tanzania for business and pleasure.Meeting at the Field officeThe field office is located at a local college compound.We had a few discussions– about the project, issues, challenges, my role as a volunteer, the job of the new Program Officer, etc., etc. The counsellor reported that out of more than 70 clients, 2 were tested positive of HIV-AIDS. In Tanzania, the incidence rate of HIV-AIDS is 2%.LunchI had marahague (red kidney beans) and wali (steamed rice cooked with coconut milk). It was a good meal. I was not able to resist to have a fresh milk with tea.Late Afternoon Roaming– Hamna Maji!(no water)We went to the place where the people get their water. Here, we witnessed the scarcity of water supply in Handeni. Afterwards, we explored the town.Around the Townthese are not snows, these are dusts - a car passed by while I was taking this pictureDinner Time and Television MomentWhile having dinner, I told Vicent and Joven that I changed my mind on the idea that it’s better to live in Handeni than in Dar.My reasons– no signal for my internet connection and no colorless water.They laughed at me.We stayed at the restaurant for some couple of hours to watch a singing competition on the television. It was a sponsored by a well known East African brand of beer.  I am impressed with the talents of Africans in dancing and singing.Another Television Moment on the Outgoing Ambassador of Israel for Tanzania and KenyaBack to the guest house. It’s our last night in Handeni. I have started packing my stuff while watching a talk show. It was in English. The guest was the outgoing Ambassador of Israel for Tanzania and Kenya. Based on the interview, he and his family lived in Tanzania for 5 years that he considered this country as the extension of his home. The discussions were more on the development contributions of Israel in Tanzania - such as programs and projects in education, agriculture, health, etc. The areas which were mentioned as recipients are Dar, Morogoro, Arusha, Moshi, Kagera and Zanzibar. These places are well known to be tourist destinations and developed. I was waiting that Handeni was to be added, but it was not. The guest mentioned that those programs/projects were partnership collaborations with the government and local NGOs . I wonder how the government of Tanzania distributes the foreign aid they are getting. Tanzania is one of the largest recipient’s countries of foreign aid in Sub-Sahara Africa. Approximately 35% of government spending is dependent on foreign aid (Fiscal Year 2008/2009). For fiscal Year 2007/2008 total Overseas Development Assistance (ODA) to Tanzania provided by 40 Development Partners amounted to approximately USD 2 billion. This includes assistance in the form of grants, concessional loans and debt relief. (source:www.tzdpg.or.tz)The last parting words of the Ambassador to the people in Tanzania–“Asante sana and kwaheri” (Thank you so much and goodbye).Day  4Courtesy CallThe Handeni District's OfficeWe checked out from the guest house after breakfast. We went to the field office to meet the Counsellor and Joven. We left together for a courtesy call to the District’s Office and District’sHospital. The hospital was another heartbreaking sight.  The queue of patients was very long. Based on the information I gathered, the hospital has more than 100 beds and it is the only government hospital of the district that served the more than 200,000 population.seen this sign at the entrance of the district's office - an indication of political willKwaheri Handeni! (Goodbye Handeni!) Asante! (Thank you!)We had light lunch at the bus station. We left for Dar at 2 pm. bus station at the Handeni DistrictA Masai - we were in the same busThe bus was full but it made several stops to pick passengers with chickens, babies, fruits and several wooden furniture (dismantled parts of beds). The woods were put on the top of the bus. I was worried that the bus might be overloaded. Those woods on top might crash the bus. I was anxious during the whole trip. I was trying to overcome my worry and ignored the sounds of chirping chickens, crying babies and noise from the passengers.fellow passengers at the bus - seats were all takenSights along the way (pictures below were taken by Vicent)It was 7 hours trip.  No stop was made for rest or toilet break. My throat was dry .  I did not drink much water since I anticipated that there are no toilets along the road.Home in DarWe finally arrived to Dar. Back to my house– it felt empty. But I was glad. Everything in this house is completely comfort compare to what I have seen in Handeni. I should be more appreciative about what I have now and be thankful to the everyday experience that I encounter–either bad or good. When I went to my bathroom to have bath and shower, it was a great pleasure to see a colorless running water.