Sunanu Simon
on Fantastic Voyage (Nigeria), 02/Jul/2010 12:21, 34 days ago
It’s early on Thursday morning and I’m sitting up in bed in a hotel room in Zaria, one of the ancient cities of Kaduna State.  The hotel was a modern conference centre in the 70s, and hasn’t really been renovated or decorated since, as the spluttering air con and dilapidated windows attest.  Mosquitoes buzz around my head, trying to decide whether my blood’s attractive enough to take the misery of lashings of DEET (at the moment they seem to prefer snacking on Jen, anyway).  My back itches like crazy from lying directly beneath a treated mosquito net last night in desperation.  Outside, about 5 muezzins compete with one another, and in between their cries the roosters and insects of West Africa are invoking the imminent appearance of the sun.Later today, we’ll be taken to see some schools in and around Zaria where teachers will nervously welcome us and children will gaze in fascination and fear before singing to or with us.  I’m going to eat a lot of meat in the next twelve hours, and be told that I’m welcome more times than my ears can comprehend.  I’m going to sweat a lot, and drink many litres of water that taste a bit like chalk from the filter.  I’m going to see hundreds of lizards hopping onto trees, frantically doing press-ups in the sun, and streaking away from people who get too near.  At least once, I’m going to put something in my mouth that I’ll wish I hadn’t – too hot, or chewy, or egg based, or fatty, or weird.  I’m going to gaze at hundreds of miles of green, and be filled with chuckling joy at entirely everyday things, like cows and goats and chickens and children.  I’m not going to take it all in, but I’m going to do my best.It’s dawn now.  The sun’s shot up, the way it does in Africa (I’m told).  The birds seem to have been taken a bit by surprise, and are squabbling about who’s got more duvet rather than chorusing.  One mosquito has braved the DEET barrier and two have been slain by my own fair hands.  The sky is totally blue and clear– the thunder clouds of the rainy season are hours away from gathering – apart from two little pink clouds which are bobbing above the trees.  I can hear people returning to their rooms after morning prayers, and there’s an excited parrotty thing just outside the window.  I’m very happy.